Pattern alterations

When we make a bespoke / custom-made garment for a client, there is a big advantage in that we can fix our patterns to make them fit perfectly to the body.

This time we want to introduce the most common cases you may have when buying ready-made garments.

*All the pictures in the article were taken intentionally to show the problems.

• Chest Breaking / Lapel Gape

A gap between lapel and chest. A chest breaking usually happens when the width of the chest of the jacket is too small for the person's chest.

• Collar Roll / Back Roll

Horizontal wrinkles just below the back neck. This is one of the most common problems with ready-made blazers and suits. The reasons could be most likely 2 cases: “the posture of the wearer” or “the person has high shoulders”. The worst thing about this defect is that you can not see it in the mirror by yourself, so some sales agents do not mention it even if the suit does not fit you well.

• Collar Gap

If there is a space between the collar of your jacket and the collar of your shirt, you are wearing the wrong jacket. Your jacket collar should always lay tight against the back of your neck. It is all about the balance of the neckline, shoulder and collar.

• X Crease

If you see a large X-shaped crease across your body when you put the first button on, it means the jacket is too tight despite the slim fit style being popular these recent years.

• Twisted Sleeve / Wrong sleeve pitch

If there are wrinkles on the outside of the sleeve, it means the angle of your arm in its natural stance doesn’t match the angle of the sleeve. You can find the different kinds of sleeve pitch / sleeve angles in the image below.

• Excess of fabric on the back rise

When you see vertical wrinkles on the back rise seam caused by excess fabric, it means the curve of the back rise does not fit your hip. In this case, the curve must be deeper.

• Tight seat

Horizontal wrinkles just under the buttocks. The reasons could be most likely two cases, or both together: “too tight seat” and “the posture of the wearer (image below)”.

• Twisted Legs / Posture of the legs

If there are diagonal wrinkles on the side seam of the trousers, it is because the posture of your legs in their natural stance doesn’t match the angle of the trousers. You can find the different kinds of postures of the legs in the image below.

If you see some of these defects on your ready-made suits, it is time to consider changing to a bespoke / custom-made suit for you, and you know who to contact. 

Moreover, there are many benefits of a tailored suit. If you want to learn about it, please read this article.

The benefits of a tailored suit

 

We have registered some real cases of our clients when they wear ready-made suits. By trying the ready-made ones, we can observe the reactions of the fabric on our clients who have different postures, which helps us to define how we should make the pattern and cut the fabric for each one.